Thursday, 30 May 2013

Day 49 Gansbaai May 22nd


We heard all kinds of sounds outside early this morning, a bit of a mild morning with the rain gone and the wind died down, the dogs started growling in the back of their throuts and the lightening in the distance started getting more violent, when I heard footsteps circling the camper I decided it was time to get up and get going, I've learned to know when the dogs are not happy, still dark but we got ourselves dressed and washed and ducked out, I was worried about being on the soft sand and having to go through the little cobbled streets in the rain, discovered that there is another road that leads straight to the main road further up so we did not have to wend our way through the fishing village yesterday but glad we did, it is very quant and led us to the perfect spot, but this morning we took a different road.

We left under heavy skies and light rain and on our way back to Bredasdorp we had a stunning sunrise pink and purple strips of light coming through the clouds and mingling with the rain, quite bautiflul, it was behind me so I didn't get to see the best of it.
Pretty town of Elim

The town in the distance

We took the R43 to Gansbaai, again I forgot to look at the map and 40km later realised that we were not on the road I expected to be on, the road to Caledon is the road I thought we were on but glad we took this way because we arrived in beautiful Elim, a little old typical Cape town with all the cottages down the main street built close next to each other, really cute and simple, the end of the town send us on to a gravel road which was a detour to Baardskeerdersbos. The detour took us 20km around the pretty farm land, a lot of wine country, the dirt road was a good one except in parts where it became corrugated and I could feel every bolt and nut rattle loose in my baby, at 38 she is too old for this treatment. We cme finally back to the main gravel road and took the turn to Pearly Beach, drove another 9km before coming back out to the main R43, crossed over and drove into Pearly Beach thankfully back to tar roads, 30km of dirt is too long for me.
Pearly Beach

the rare Oystercatcher

We drove down to the dunes where we stopped for a lovely walk, a coffee break and some hiking around the beach, the paths and the rocks, all kelp and weeds and rocks with no beach to talk of, again fancy houses with shutters and curtains closing the outside world out, we spent a lovely peaceful hour their searching in vain for the shy oystercatchers who are rare but breed here, I see there numbers are right down due to the damage poeple, dogs, cars and vandalism does to their eggs and breeding grounds.

Hit the road under still cloudy skies and drove the 20 odd minutes to Gansbaai, not a pretty place but I stopped in at a computer shop in the main street on the off chance and asked if they could take the pictures off my xd card, the one I have been carrying around for weeks becasue it was corrupted and voila in about 15 seconds he had them up on his computer, loaded them on to my usb and I formatted the card on my camera and now not only do I have my 136 pictures that I thought were lost to me forever, but I aslo have my 128meg XD card which allows me to take 120 odd pictures before I need to download them , I have not found a camera shop anywhere selling them as they are so old, plus I still have Lorraines 16 meg card as a back up, very happy indeed and will always remember Gansbaai for this bonus, one thing less to do in Cape Town.
Gans Baai


Was going to sleep here the night but we hit the beach, found a nice place to park and walk along a path they have running along the coast, but no beach to speak of, again only rocks and wide open spaces that leave us exposed, nowhere for us to hide oursleves comfortably, plus this is not a cozy town, so we climbed back in the camper and headed out towards Hernanus via Stanford.

I was last here with Elisabeth in about 2007 and it was not a great trip, we came into the CBD during the holiday season, we were rushing ourselves because I had to take Elisabeth on to Stellenbosch, there were people everywhere and we had a bad meal on the waterfront, my memory is not a good one of this place and I was not planning on staying too long if possible, we drove into town with the lagoon on one side and the lovely Klein rivier mountain range on the other side, as we came round the bend I saw a lovely spot with a sign post reading Prawn Flats, but I could only see a dumpsite and a caravan park with a CLOSED sign, so that looked like a bust, but the lagoon looks so peaceful and is full of water birds, ah well, we will have to look for something else becasue I'm tired of driving and their is not much more to do before we hit Cape Town and I am not ready to go into Caoe Town just yet.

As is our style these days, we stopped at the first beach we could find, a lovely clean spot with a large parking area, toilets and a green patch with another autovilla parked comfortably in the corner, looks like it's been here awhile, has a permanent look to it and a half wolf, half husky tied to the front on a long lead. We parked, filled our water bottles, even though there are signs everywhere telling us that this is a water scarse area and went off for a walk on the beach and along the lovely paths they have everywhere, my word The Cape knows how to make things tourist friendly, benches every few metres for the whale watching public I guess, but the coast is beautiful and the cliffs have gorgeous little coves with little bits of white beach for swimming and lots of surfers at weekends I believe.
Kamma Beach

Donovans home

lovely Hermanus coastline

We came back to the camper and the autovilla had a visitor, a lady talking to the owner, Donovan, I went up to them and asked if they could recommend a nice place for me to have a decent lunch at a nice spot where the dogs coud sit with me and it had to have a view. They directed me to the Harbour, we got talking, Donovan has been camping on this patch of grass for 25 years off and on, no idea how he managed to get away with that, but now apparently his time is up and he has to move, his heath is bad so he wants to sell his camper, his dog is also 14 years old and snot o healthy as well, Clare, his friend, is local and comes down to help him with the dog, Double Up, she asked me about food for him, we tried hi on some Pro Pac and he loved it so she went off to see if she could find some for him.

I asked Donovan about a camping place that might have a shower, and would you believe it, he directed me to his friend Henk down at the Prawn Flats, doesn't life work in funny ways. So first I went off to the Harbour, what a lovely spot overlooking the whole town, had to pay my R5 to get into the harbour first, had a nice meal at the Harbour Rock restaurant with the dogs at my feet and enjoyed the absolutely magnificent view, then we drove all the way to the other end of town, about 10km, this place has grown, and drove into Prawn flats, found the little wooden wendy houses, next to the dump site, found Henk, a young guy, and paid R50 to camp the night. We got to park right on the edge of the property overlooking the lagoon, I would have to pay many thousands of rand for this view anywhere else, magnificent, we have a bathroom which I only share with his mom, so a nice hot shower is on the cards tonight. We also have a communal kitchen where I am now sitting, writing and listening to the 5 guys who live here rattling off about their day in Afrikaans, all friendly. Steve, one of the guys lived in the Northern Cape and has given me mucho info about the place, including info on the Mission up there that I have been searching for, he says it is in a place called Pello, I was told about it but had no real info on how to find it, at least I now have a name and basic directions.

I sat for hours this afternoon just soaking up this place overlooking the lagoon and over- shadowed by the Babilonstoringberg mountain range, watching the greater and the lesser flamingoes doing their little dances, lots of water birds and a pair of fish eagles squaking loudly apparently because they may have a full grown youngster they are trying to get rid of and he doesn't want to go, I know the feeling.
eating at the harbour


See en Sand

exploring paradise

Well I lucked out in this place, it is magnificent, the dogs love it and are exploring everywhere, tomorrow apparently when we wake up the lagoon will be full of birds, I am looking forward to watching the sun come up over the water with the bird activity, so we will sleep well tonight safe and relaxed and clean and warm.

Night, snuggle up.

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