Monday, 10 June 2013

Day 66 Lambert's Bay

Woke to a wet and misty morning, left the door open over night so much of our clean camper was wet this morning, tried to have a shower, let the dogs have a piss and pack up without getting us all too wet, not very successfull but gave us a reason to leave early and drive the 45km over the coastal road, which is a relatively new road that was not here the last time I was in the area, to Lambert's Bay. The map showed it as a tar road but the last part was a potholed sand road but by then the fog had cleared a bit and the rain had let up, not a pleasant road to have travelled if it was still raining, picked up a coloured hitchhiker, sweet guy who would rather sit with the dogs growling at him than walk in the drissle the last 5km into town, he showed us where the campsite was, not where my map showed it, and then told me to come by his place on my way out of town and he will give me some aartappels, thanked me profusely for the lift and went on his way. We had been past by lots of 4x4's on the sand road and the camper looks like she took a mudbath.
snow on the mountains

ostrich farming this far north and snow on the piketberg mountains

Elands bay

The campsite had no-one around so we went back into town for a walk on the beach and then came back to the site later, the lady had been there all along hiding behind her phone, quoted me R136 for the night then dropped it to R102 when I mentioned I'm on pension (this is really working for me) I said I would stay for two nights, then she said I could not stay when I mentioned the dogs, but my charm talked her around, I promised to park in the little area thay have at the bottom of this huuuuge place, suitable for tents and down a bank a bit hidden from the rest of the park, there is one other caravan here with a tent and all the fittings including a satellite dish, the book says they are from Cape Town and they wanted to bring their little dog but were told they could not, she is worried about them seeing my dogs, I said I would stay under the rada far away from them, not hard to do as this must be the largest campsite I've stayed in in South Africa, I remember a larger one in Lisbon but it was a municipal one that housed a lot of permanent tenants, this one has only holiday makers, must be hell here in season.

We cuddled indoors with a book for awhile until the sun came out a bit and the day cleared up, then drove out of the site and round and down the outside of it onto the empty beach which we are parked next to but cannot get to because of the fence surrounding the park, we stopped in the parking area with one other little white car there as soon as I stopped the three occupants got out of the car, all holding beers,and accosted me wanting to know about the snakes, young guys out doing what youngsters do on a Saturday afternoon in Lambert's bay, they were very interesting to talk to and even accepted Jos attacking them when I let the dogs out the door, I had told them just to stand still and they did, and were impressed when she went at them but then stopped and sniffed their jeans and left them alone.
sunset at elandsbaai

elands bay

the railway line

our front yard

So how is my law of attraction radar, one of them, Donovan, has just been up the coast to Doringbaai and tells me the roads are bad because of the rain but in the dry weather my camper will be fine as long as I just watch the potholes, they did the trip in their little white jobby, then one of them tells me he lived in Skaapvlei which is a huge town and everyone does their own thing and there are no farmers up there so you can build your farm wherever you want tannie, they tell me, now is that not exactly what I wanted to hear or what, that is the spot I am looking at give or take 50km either side and I knew nothing about Skaapvlei, never heard of it. I was looking at the map and thinking of the perfect spot being around Cliff point, looks great and I can park myself between the road and the beach if the space is large anough, may be too close to civilization but it looks and sounds great so I will go and check it out, he also told me the campsites along the coast are for 4 x 4's and my camper will get bogged down in the sea sand if I attempt to go to one, good to know.

Left them to their beers and loud music and took a long walk along the beach and the dunes out of town, down around the river mouth with water that stinks to high heaven, even in this pretty town, must be from the fisheries in the area, there are a lot of them, then into town for some lunch and to look for some wi-fi. The hotel gives theirs only to guests and the local restaurant that supplies it with a meal was closed, so we gave it a miss, had another walk in the town beach and then headed back to the campsite for dinner for the dogs, coffee for me, still black, I am attempting to get a taste for it so when I live in the middle of nowhere I won't miss not having any milk.

Had the night to write and read and watch some TV shorts, started watching 'Community' which I thought was really doff to start with but it's growing on me, maybe because I am limited with my choices, not sure. I got the first three seasons from Kay in Cape Town. Dogs are out like lights because they spent an hour chasing the feral cats that are too dumb to leave the area and I know if Jos gets hold of one she will rip it apart so I have to shake the cats out of the trees until they hightail it out of our little boudour down here in no mans land and out of Josies sight.

So comfortable, warm, settled, the rain is back, should be able to have a hot shower later when I'm ready for bed and tomorrow we will go and explore bird island and attempt to have a meal and maybe get some internet connection.

Before I had a chance at a shower the owners husband rocks up in his 4x4 and tells me, in very nice Afrikaans, that their are some 'swart mense' running around that he is not happy with and he prefers it if we move the camper to the main body of the campsite near the ablution block, he feels we need to be in a safer spot as this one is far away from everybody, (not many people in this campsote so I am not sure who he thinks will come to my rescue should I need rescuing) but he was so earnest about his request I did not have the heart to refuse him, also did not tell him that we have parked in places where 'baai swart mense bly' and felt no fear, but each to their own, so we ended up parked next to the road which was noisy and irritating and tonight I am going to the other side of the park where the sea is, which was my original plan and the only reason we ended up downstairs was becasue of the dogs, but they don't seem worried about that so I may as well get the prime spot overlooking the ocean where we can watch the sunset and sunrise as we have become accustomed to doing.
Did find it more pleasant to have a shower without needing to walk a long way to the ablutions.

So finally, sleep tight

Woke to a cold morning and we cuddled under the duvet until after 8, then crept out, got dressed and hit the beach for a walk, I wanted to explore bird island but there are no major birds this time of year, no Cape Gannets, no penguins, some cormorants and lots of seagulls but they are on the beach as well, plus the island, which is connected to the mainland by a concrete walkway, looks like a bit of concrete designed for the tourists and not the birds, the dogs were also not allowed to come with me, so we looked from afar, and gave it a miss.

Had a relaxing day exploring the town a bit, had a bad potjie lunch at the Weskus kombuis, (not very originl names on the West coast.) We had no electricity in town due to some maintenance so could only pay cash for anything I needed as no machines were working, as I have no cash left that limited us, but we were cool and spent most of the day tramping around the beach, walked up the small mountain to see more of the vlei and the water birds and checked out the town, then ended up at our new spot on the sea side of the campsite, relaxed for the rest of the night with my book and some tv shorts, added “How I met your mother” to 'Community' wish I had something decent to watch like the big bang theory.

It was a beautiful crisp, blue day, the sea was stunning, the surfers were out, people braaing in the park and lots of walkers, what did get to me was the beggers, every person who saw me approached me blatantly for food and when I said I have none they said money would do, nothing skaam about these beggers, it eventually drove us to spend time between walks in the campsite where I could read in peace, it would be nice to give but impossible to give to everyone. The sea is intoxicating and I am glad I made the decision finally to come and live this side of the country, something energising about the constant pull of the waves, should give me a whole new lease on life.

So hot shower and snuggle into bed.


Sweet dreams

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